Blog
香港陶瓷鍍膜：真保護、真硬度、不玩噱頭
Ignore the 10H coating claims
如果在香港有人向你推銷「10H」或者「12H」陶瓷鍍膜，可以直接走。鉛筆硬度最高只到 9H。以下解釋硬度真正代表什麼，以及鍍膜實際做得到什麼。
重點摘要
- 9H 已經是上限。鉛筆硬度由 6B 到 9H，任何高於 9H 的聲稱都是宣傳話術。
- 鍍膜不是防刮。它提供的是化學抗性、抗紫外線與強疏水，讓清洗更安全、更輕鬆。
- 車漆、玻璃、輪圈各用對應的 CarPro 鍍膜，選的是耐得住香港濕度、鹽霧與粉塵的配方。
- 真正的價值在於瑕疵更少、兩次洗車之間保持乾淨、光澤更耐，而不是一個誇大的硬度數字。
鉛筆硬度測試是怎樣做的
測試方式是以 6B 到 9H 的鉛筆，用固定角度與壓力劃過已鍍膜的面板。能夠抵抗 9H 鉛筆而不留痕，就已經是這個方法的最高級別；官方尺度上並沒有高於 9H 的級別，「10H」或以上只是為了抬價。而且即使真的達到 9H，砂粒、毛刷式機洗或者一條髒毛巾仍然可以刮花表面。9H 的意思是對輕微刮痕有較好的抵抗力，不是刮不花。
陶瓷鍍膜實際的作用
好的陶瓷鍍膜改變的是保養方式，不是物理定律。水珠更緊密、更容易滑走，抹乾時需要的接觸更少，出旋紋的風險也因此下降。路面油膜、昆蟲殘跡與鳥糞不會那麼容易黏實。抗紫外線可以減慢褪色與氧化，光學上則帶來濕潤飽滿的光澤。日常來說，就是用更少功夫維持更好的外觀。
為何在香港更重要
高濕度加上突然出太陽，容易形成礦物水漬；海風帶來鹽分，會腐蝕輪圈與飾條；工地粉塵像極細的磨料，潤滑與保護不足的話，深色車漆很快就會變啞。施工妥當的鍍膜可以減少污垢黏附、降低蝕斑，也讓落雨或多塵之後的清洗更簡單、更安全。
要不要做鍍膜？已經有 PPF 又如何？
長期露天停放、每日代步，或者深色車身容易顯瑕疵的車，得益最明顯：氧化更慢、洗車更容易、水斑更少、光澤更飽滿。如果車長期停在車房、行駛不多，而你又喜歡定期打蠟，高品質封體可能已經足夠，不過鍍膜仍然可以省下不少功夫。
已經貼了 PPF，問題就不是「二選一」，而是分層保護。PPF 負責抵擋飛石；陶瓷鍍膜在膜上面再加一層化學抗性、抗紫外線與更易清潔的表面。我們經常在優質 PPF 上面鍍 CQ.UK 3.0，並為未貼膜的車漆上同一款鍍膜，讓整車的外觀與保養方式一致。玻璃與輪圈 PPF 覆蓋不到，仍然建議各自做鍍膜。
我們用什麼
- 車漆：CarPro CQ.UK 3.0，化學抗性與抗紫外線都強，潮濕季節疏水依然穩定。
- 玻璃：CarPro GForce，雨水更容易結珠流走，雨刮更安靜，蟲跡與油膜更易清除。
- 輪圈與飾條：CarPro DLUX，耐得住煞車高溫，粉塵更容易沖走，膠件也不會那麼快褪色。
- 保養：以中性洗車液手洗，定期除鐵除柏油，避開毛刷式機洗。
可以不理的說法
- 「硬度 10H 以上」：尺度只到 9H。
- 「終身有效、不用保養」：任何鍍膜都需要正確洗車與定期除污。
- 「不用做前期準備」：漆面沒處理好，再好的產品都黏不住。
If someone in Hong Kong tries to sell you a “10H” or “12H” ceramic coating, walk away. The pencil hardness scale stops at 9H. Here’s what hardness actually means, and what a coating really does.
The short version
- 9H is the top of the scale. Anything above that is a sales line.
- Coating isn’t scratch-proof. It resists chemicals and UV, and water beads off, so washing is safer and easier.
- We use CarPro CQ.UK 3.0 on paint, GForce on glass, and DLUX on wheels and trim, chosen for humidity, salt and dust here.
- The point is a cleaner car between washes and gloss that lasts, not a hardness number.
How the hardness test works
Pencils from 6B to 9H are dragged across a coated panel at a set angle. Resisting a 9H pencil is as high as this test goes. There is no official 10H. Even a 9H coating can still be marked by grit, brush tunnels or a dirty towel. It just means light marks are less likely if you wash it properly.
What a coating actually does
A good coating changes how you look after the car. It doesn’t change physics. Water beads and sheets off. You need less contact when you dry, so swirls are less likely. Traffic film, insects and bird droppings come off more easily. UV resistance slows fade. The paint looks wetter, and it stays that way with less work.
Why it matters more here
Humidity plus sudden sun etches mineral spots. Sea air salts wheels and trim. Construction dust is a fine abrasive that dulls dark paint if you wash without enough lubrication. A coating that’s put on properly means dirt doesn’t stick as much, and washing after rain or a dusty day is simpler.
Do you need one, and what if you already have PPF?
Daily drivers that live outside, and dark cars, see the biggest difference: slower fade, easier washes, fewer water spots. If the car sits in a garage and you like waxing, a good sealant may be enough, though coating still saves time.
If you already have PPF, you don’t have to choose. PPF takes the stone chips; coating on top makes the film (and the rest of the paint) easier to clean. We often put CQ.UK 3.0 on quality PPF and match the unwrapped paint so the whole car looks and washes the same. Glass and wheels still need their own coatings. PPF doesn’t cover them.
What we use
- Paint: CarPro CQ.UK 3.0: holds up to chemicals and UV, and still beads in wet months.
- Glass: CarPro GForce: rain beads off, less wiper chatter, bugs come off easier.
- Wheels and trim: CarPro DLUX: handles heat, brake dust rinses off, plastics don’t fade as fast.
- Aftercare: hand wash with a neutral shampoo, iron and tar off now and then, and stay out of brush tunnels.
Ignore these
- Hardness above 9H. The scale stops there.
- “Lifetime, zero care.” Every coating needs proper washes.
- Skipping prep. Even a great product won’t stick without it.
